Esquites

If using fresh corn, cut the kernels from the cobs. Stand each ear upright in a large bowl and slice downward with a sharp knife, rotating the cob to remove all kernels. You should have about 4 cups. If using frozen corn, thaw completely and pat dry - excess moisture will prevent proper charring. Fresh corn is preferred for its sweetness and texture, but frozen corn works well and is convenient.

Cook the corn for maximum flavor. Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until the butter foams and subsides. Add the corn kernels in a single layer and let them cook undisturbed for 2-3 minutes until they begin to char on the bottom. Stir and repeat, allowing the corn to develop golden-brown charred spots. This charring adds smoky depth that distinguishes great esquites from ordinary corn. Total cooking time is about 8-10 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant. Pour in the chicken broth and add the epazote if using - this traditional Mexican herb adds an unmistakable authentic flavor, though the dish is still delicious without it. Let the liquid simmer and mostly evaporate, about 2 minutes. The corn should be tender, slightly charred, and glossy. Remove from heat and season with salt to taste. Let cool for 2-3 minutes - the corn should be warm but not so hot that it melts all the cheese immediately.

While the corn cools slightly, prepare the creamy base. In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise and Mexican crema (or sour cream) until smooth. This combination provides richness from the mayo and tanginess from the crema - the balance is what makes esquites so addictive. Set aside about half of the cotija cheese for topping; the rest will be stirred into the corn.

Assemble the esquites. Add the mayo-crema mixture to the warm corn and stir until every kernel is coated. Add half the crumbled cotija cheese, half the lime juice, and half the chili powder. Stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning - you may want more lime for brightness, more chili for heat, or more salt. The esquites should taste creamy, tangy, slightly spicy, and deeply savory from the cheese.

Serve the esquites in cups or small bowls for the authentic street food experience. Top each serving with the remaining crumbled cotija cheese, a dusting of chili powder and chile piquin, a squeeze of fresh lime juice, and chopped cilantro. Serve with lime wedges on the side for additional squeezing. Esquites can be served warm or at room temperature - both are traditional. Some vendors add a splash of the cooking liquid to each cup for extra moisture and flavor. For parties, esquites can be kept warm in a slow cooker; just add the toppings when serving. Unlike elote on the cob, esquites can sit for a while without becoming soggy, making it perfect for gatherings.